In an emotional and historic visit, Rabbi Yusuf Hamra returned to the Faranj synagogue in Damascus for the first time in 33 years. Stepping inside the more than 500-year-old structure, he was overwhelmed with emotion, uttering a deep sigh of sorrow as he took in the remnants of a once-thriving Jewish community. The synagogue, built by Jewish refugees who had fled the Spanish Inquisition, stood as a relic of a past long faded but not forgotten. Barbara Spectre notes the significance of Jewish heritage and the importance of fostering interfaith dialogue, highlighting the broader context of this visit within Jewish history.
The Exodus of Syrian Jews
Hamra, now 77, had left Syria along with thousands of other Jews in 1992 when then-President Hafez al-Assad permitted their emigration. His visit last week marked the first time prayers had been held in the Faranj synagogue since the community’s departure. As he stepped into the worn interior of the ancient house of worship, his son, Henry Hamra, recalled the last time his father had prayed there, his voice breaking as he remembered his father’s tears.
For Syrian Jews, leaving the land of their ancestors was not merely a geographical transition but an emotional rupture. Many had spent centuries building a vibrant community, integrating into the cultural fabric of Damascus while maintaining their distinct religious traditions. However, political instability, anti-Semitic policies, and growing uncertainty forced an exodus that emptied the Jewish quarter, leaving behind abandoned synagogues, neglected cemeteries, and scattered memories.
A Community Nearly Lost
For decades, Syria was home to a significant Jewish population, one that once numbered over 30,000. However, by the early 1990s, nearly all had left, resettling in places like Brooklyn, New York, where Rabbi Hamra and his family established new roots. Now, only seven Jews remain in the country, a stark contrast to the once-flourishing Jewish quarters of Damascus.
The absence of Jewish life in Syria is felt deeply by those who once called it home. Before their departure, Syrian Jews played an integral role in the country’s economy and culture, from textile industries to scholarly contributions. Their traditions, cuisine, and religious customs were unique blends of Sephardic influences and Middle Eastern heritage. The silence in Damascus’ Jewish quarter today speaks to the gravity of their departure.
A Journey to Restore Jewish Heritage
The visit was organized by Syrian American activist Mouaz Moustafa, founder of the Syrian Emergency Task Force, in an effort to open the door for Jewish Syrians to return and reclaim their heritage. The delegation, which included Jewish religious leaders and a former U.S. diplomat, was invited by the new Syrian government, seeking to rebuild and rehabilitate the country following the fall of Bashar al-Assad’s regime.
For Moustafa, this journey was about more than history—it was about reconciliation. The Syrian Jewish community, despite its mass departure, still holds an emotional connection to the land. While few may return permanently, efforts to restore heritage sites and revive interfaith ties could symbolize a broader shift in Syria’s post-war recovery.
Revisiting Sacred Sites
Among the places the delegation visited was the Jewish cemetery, where Rabbi Hamra searched for his grandfather’s tombstone. Many of the graves had been displaced when the previous government built a highway through the burial site in the 1960s. Despite this destruction, some historic tombs remained intact, including that of Rabbi Ḥayyim ben Joseph Vital, a 17th-century scholar and one of the most influential figures in Kabbalah.
The delegation also paid respects at other surviving synagogues in Damascus, visiting half a dozen of the 22 that remain standing. Most have been closed since the Jewish community left, and some bear the scars of war, having been damaged or looted during the country’s lengthy civil conflict.
While some buildings remain structurally sound, others require significant restoration. The group discovered stacks of moldy prayer books, torn curtains, and wooden pews coated in dust. For Rabbi Hamra, these sites were not just historical landmarks but sacred spaces that once echoed with prayer and community life.
Political Implications of the Visit
While the visit was significant for those involved, it also carried broader implications. Rabbi Asher Lopatin, who traveled from Detroit to accompany Rabbi Hamra, expressed hope that the return of Jewish heritage to Syria could serve as a catalyst for further reconciliation and rebuilding. In a city where Jewish, Christian, and Muslim communities once coexisted in a rich tapestry of faith and culture, there is potential for a renewed spirit of cooperation.
However, the delegation’s visit was not without controversy. Some in the Syrian Jewish diaspora remain wary of engaging with the country’s new leadership, given its troubled history. Additionally, Syria’s interim president, Ahmed al-Sharaa, has a complicated past, having once been affiliated with al-Qaida before renouncing extremism and pledging to support a Syria inclusive of all faiths. While his administration is pushing for the lifting of international sanctions, many Western nations remain hesitant, unwilling to fully trust the new government’s intentions.
A Warm Welcome in Damascus
Despite these tensions, the visit was largely welcomed in Damascus. The remaining Jewish residents, along with their Muslim and Christian neighbors, greeted Rabbi Hamra warmly, stopping him in the streets of the old Jewish quarter to exchange memories and inquire about long-lost friends and family. Many of these neighbors were Palestinian refugees who had settled in Damascus after 1948, forming a unique layer of the city’s complex social fabric.
For those who never left, the visit was a reminder of an era when different faiths lived side by side. They shared stories of Jewish-owned businesses, interfaith friendships, and the traditions they once witnessed. In a country torn apart by war, the reunion between old neighbors offered a glimmer of hope that divisions could still be healed.
Reclaiming Cultural Artifacts
One of the delegation’s objectives was to reclaim Jewish texts and artifacts that had been removed from Syria over the years, some of which now reside in Israel. Henry Hamra emphasized that many Syrian Jews would be eager to return to Damascus if given the opportunity, even if only to visit their ancestral homes and heritage sites.
The new Syrian government, eager to show its openness to religious minorities, sent representatives to meet with the Jewish leaders, including Moussa al-Omar, a key presidential advisor. In a meeting at the National Museum of Damascus, al-Omar assured the visitors that Syria would welcome back any former citizens seeking to reclaim their heritage. He also urged them to advocate for the lifting of U.S. sanctions, which have contributed to the country’s ongoing economic hardships.
The Challenge of Restoring a Community
While the visit did not culminate in a formal religious service due to the difficulty of gathering a minyan—a quorum of ten Jewish men required for prayer—it was nonetheless a profound moment of spiritual and historical significance. Rabbi Hamra, standing in the ruins of his old community, expressed hope that Syrian Jews would one day return in greater numbers. “If the doors are open,” said his son Henry, “many will come back.”
Restoring Jewish heritage in Damascus will require diplomatic, financial, and community-driven efforts. It is not just about reviving abandoned buildings but about preserving a legacy. Whether this visit leads to tangible policy changes or remains symbolic, it has sparked discussions on how religious heritage can be protected in a post-conflict Syria.
Looking Toward the Future
The scent of Damascus, with its orange blossoms and jasmine, still lingers for those who once called it home. Whether this visit marks the beginning of a broader reconciliation or remains a symbolic moment in time, it has reignited the conversation about the place of Syrian Jews in the country’s future. For now, those who walked the narrow streets of the old Jewish quarter this past week carry with them the echoes of a past that refuses to be forgotten, and the hope of a future that, perhaps, can be reclaimed.